Cold Weather and your pet

You’re probably already aware of the risks posed by warm weather and leaving pets in hot cars, but did you know that cold weather also poses serious threats to your pets’ health? Here are some tips to keep your pets safe during cold weather.

Ensure your pet has had his/her preventive care exam (wellness exam).  Cold weather may worsen some medical conditions such as arthritis. Your pet should be examined by a veterinarian at least once a year, and it’s as good a time as any to get him/her checked out to make sure (s)he is ready and as healthy as possible for cold weather.

Just like people, pets’ cold tolerance can vary from pet to pet based on their coat, body fat stores, activity level, and health. You will probably need to shorten your dog’s walks in very cold weather to protect you both from weather-associated health risks. Arthritic and elderly pets may have more difficulty walking on snow and ice and may be more prone to slipping and falling. Long-haired or thick-coated dogs tend to be more cold-tolerant, but are still at risk in cold weather. Short-haired pets feel the cold faster because they have less protection, and short-legged pets may become cold faster because their bellies and bodies are more likely to come into contact with snow-covered ground. 

Just like you, pets prefer comfortable sleeping places and may change their location based on their need for more or less warmth. Give them some safe options to allow them to vary their sleeping place to adjust to their needs.

Cats and dogs should be kept inside during cold weather. It’s a common belief that dogs and cats are more resistant than people to cold weather because of their fur, but it’s untrue. Like people, cats and dogs are susceptible to frostbite and hypothermia and should be kept inside.

Check your dog’s paws frequently for signs of cold-weather injury or damage, such as cracked paw pads or bleeding. During a walk, a sudden lameness may be due to an injury or may be due to ice accumulation between his/her toes. You may be able to reduce the chance of iceball accumulation by clipping the hair between your dog’s toes.

If your dog has a short coat or seems bothered by the cold weather, consider a sweater or dog coat. Have several on hand, so you can use a dry sweater or coat each time your dog goes outside. Wet sweaters or coats can actually make your dog colder.

During walks, your dog’s feet, legs and belly may pick up deicers, antifreeze, or other chemicals that could be toxic. When you get back inside, wipe down (or wash) your pet’s feet, legs and belly to remove these chemicals and reduce the risk that your dog will be poisoned after (s)he licks them off of his/her feet or fur.

Many pets become lost in winter because snow and ice can hide recognizable scents that might normally help your pet find his/her way back home. Make sure your pet has a well-fitting collar with up-to-date identification and contact information. A microchip is a more permanent means of identification, but it’s critical that you keep the registration up to date.

Hot cars are a known threat to pets, but cold cars also pose significant risk to your pet’s health. You’re already familiar with how a car can rapidly cool down in cold weather; it becomes like a refrigerator, and can rapidly chill your pet. Pets that are young, old, ill, or thin are particularly susceptible to cold environments and should never be left in cold cars.

Odds are your pet will be spending more time inside during the winter, so it’s a good time to make sure your house is properly pet-proofed. Use space heaters with caution around pets, because they can burn or they can be knocked over, potentially starting a fire. Check your furnace before the cold weather sets in to make sure it’s working efficiently, and install carbon monoxide detectors to keep your entire family safe from harm.

We don’t recommend keeping any pet outside for long periods of time, but if you are unable to keep your dog inside during cold weather, provide him/her with a warm, solid shelter against wind. Make sure that they have unlimited access to fresh, non-frozen water (by changing the water frequently or using a pet-safe, heated water bowl). The floor of the shelter should be off of the ground (to minimize heat loss into the ground) and the bedding should be thick, dry and changed regularly to provide a warm, dry environment. The door to the shelter should be positioned away from prevailing winds.

If your pet is whining, shivering, seems anxious, slows down or stops moving, seems weak, or starts looking for warm places to burrow, get them back inside quickly because they are showing signs of hypothermia. Frostbite is harder to detect, and may not be fully recognized until a few days after the damage is done. If you suspect your pet has hypothermia or frostbite, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Cold weather also brings the risks of severe winter weather, blizzards and power outages. Prepare a disaster/emergency kit, and include your pet in your plans. Have enough food, water and medicine (including any prescription medications as well as heartworm and flea/tick preventives) on hand to get through at least 5 days.

Keep your pet at a healthy weight throughout the winter. Some pet owners feel that a little extra weight gives their pet some extra protection from cold, but the health risks associated with that extra weight don’t make it worth doing. Watch your pet’s body condition and keep them in the healthy range. Outdoor pets will require more calories in the winter to generate enough body heat and energy to keep them warm – talk to your veterinarian about your pet’s nutritional needs during cold weather.

Keep Dancin’ Larry B

 

Getting the Best Harness for your dog

When picking out your dog's new harness, it is all about safety and comfort. A proper fit ensures a happy hound. The best way to purchase a new harness for your dog is to take her into the pet supply store with you and try different sizes. However, if you are purchasing your harness online you will need to get accurate measurements. A harness is designed for a lot of dogs, especially puppies who pull on their leash and old dogs who need a little support. It goes around the chest, shoulders, and then clips onto the back.

Have someone hold your dog steady, or place your dog in a "stand" position. Have the dog stand quietly while you measure him. It's almost impossible to measure a wiggly dog.

Measure around behind his front legs. Take note of the circumference of the dog's body just behind his front legs. This will be how many inches around the harness must be.

First you can measure around the dog's neck. This particular measurement may not matter with certain kinds of harnesses, but it is good to have it on hand just in case you purchase a harness which depends on the neck size.

Get a chest measurement too. To do this you will start from in front of the dog's front legs. Bring the tape around the front of the dog and around until you reach the same point in front of the opposite front leg.

Watch how your dog walks around in the new harness to make sure he feels comfortable in it too. You do not want it to be pinching or hindering his gait.

After measuring your dog's ribcage and comparing it with Sizing Chart, you may find that two different sizes will fit your dog. Normally, the best size to select will be the smaller of the two sizes.

To determine the correct size, please measure around your dog's ribcage, as shown in the photo, Take this measurement and refer to Harness Sizing chart to find the correct size for your dog.

 

DO NOT use your dog's weight as the primary factor for determining size because various dog breeds distribute their weight differently. For example, Dachshunds distribute their weight over their length versus girth, while Pugs have a greater concentration of their weight at their girth.

Keep Dancin' Larry B

Housebreaking the New Puppy, Roscoe

This entry is on housebreaking, we have done the same training when introducing other pups into a pack with great success. As before, keep the training as part of your normal routine for the house. You want to always incorporate your existing pack in the training of the new puppy.

When the other dogs go out, the pup is taken as well but is held so the rest of the pack can complete their individual task.   While the pup is in your arms, ensure he/she is watching the others. Get excited and praise extensively when the other members complete their task. This shows the pup that this is the behavior you desire in everyone.

We have also learned by introducing the pup this way to the desired behavior, the adults get a break from the pup wanting to play.  Trust me, I do believe, they would thank you for getting the chance to actually take care of their business without a little squirt bothering them.

Let the rest of the pack back in the house and then set the pup down. We use “Make Pee Pee” as our command to get our gang to initiate the desired behavior. Once the pup succeeds in eliminating, get excited, praise and pet the pup for doing a good “Make Pee Pee”.

We also immediately give a very small tidbit for the good behavior. These tidbits should strictly be used for training and given at no other time except with desired behaviors.

When you are home with the pup, keep to a regular outdoor schedule, first use every 2 hours and slowly increase over time. We work this increase in time over 4-6 weeks from every 2 hours when you are home with the puppy to 4-6 hours between potty breaks. A good rule of thumb is 1 hour per pound so if pup is 3 pounds every three hours do a “Make Pee Pee” run.

Now, of course, the pup is still going to have accidents indoors till they get the full idea that the only good behavior is eliminating outdoors.  Indoors, we utilize washable training pad for the day pen and also by the door that we use to take dogs out.  We found using disposables was just tempting for the pup to want to shred since everything at this stage is explore and destroy...

Two things to remember with accidents: 

1. If you did not see it occur, take it in stride. I take the pup to the scene of the accident, simply Point it out to the pup and say this was a bad girl/boy.  Nothing more than a harsh bad girl/boy is all that is needed. Clean it up and place this on the indoor pads, show the pup again and state this is good place, good girl/boy.

2. If you catch the pup initiating or in the process of the accident immediately, use your Negative command, we use a loud guttural ECH or No. This will usually distract the pup for a second; take the pup preferably outside or to your indoor pad.  Give the “Make Pee Pee” command and praise for being good girl/boy at the appropriate location.

If your pup is the only one, you have at this time, we recommend taking an indoor pad to the outdoor area you want the pup to conduct his/her business this helps in transitioning the pup to go outside, the good place inside moves outside. Over a few weeks the only place he/she sees the pad is on the outside and associates the outside as the only good place left to “Make Pee Pee”.

 Roscoe is 11 weeks old and only being in the house with his new pack for 2 days is at 99% accuracy on going on his pad when in day pen or the other designated “Make Pee Pee” pad in house. We have had rainy weather since his arrival so the outside concept has not been introduced the past couple of days.

Kennel training for bed time is another area to consider for housebreaking. I utilize a kennel that is large enough for the pup as an adult. The first few weeks, a disposable pad is folded and place in the back of the kennel and a pillow in front for the bed.  This gives the pup an immediate good place for accidents when kept in the kennel at night.  After 2 weeks, I recommend removing this pad from the kennel, so the pup learns that this bed area is not going to be a location for elimination.

Expect a few accidents in the Kennel but we find after a few times of being so close to their own accident, the pup learns this is not a behavior they will tolerate.

We are utilizing a baby play pen for Roscoe since he is going to remain a small guy. He is getting all food and a pee pad in the Play Pen for the next couple of weeks so he will be happy to spend time in the pen alone.  He is starting to not whine after a few minutes of being placed back in pen, he has already learned if he hurries up and does a Good Boy, Make Pee Pee. He gets to come out to be with us faster.

Roscoe and I hope our learning articles are of help to other pups and their human companions.  Roscoe agrees it is frustrating to get his human to respond appropriately at times but worth the hassle of training.

 

Keep Dancin' Larry B